Seed Saving for Beginners: Why Open-Pollinated Seed Matters

Saving your own seed turns a garden into something that can carry on from one year to the next without a trip to the store. It is also an old, ordinary skill. You do not need special equipment, just the right kind of seed to start with and a dry jar to keep it in.

This guide explains the seed types, the easiest crops to begin with, and how to dry and store what you save. The method is from University of Minnesota (UMN) Extension, Illinois Extension and Seeds of Diversity Canada. I have not saved seed myself; I am passing on what they say.

The three words on a seed packet

Open-pollinated. UMN says these are the varieties to save from, because their seed grows into plants that are still very similar to the parent. Illinois Extension describes them as varieties whose traits reliably carry through to the next generation.

Heirloom. Illinois calls heirlooms a type of open-pollinated crop: older varieties passed down through generations. UMN notes that open-pollinated varieties can also be newer selections, so not every open-pollinated seed is an heirloom.

Hybrid (often marked F1). A hybrid comes from crossing two specific parent varieties. UMN says its seed does not come true and that it is impossible to predict exactly how the next plants will perform. Yukon’s seed saving guide advises not saving seed from plants grown from hybrid or F1 seed. UMN also notes hybrid seed generally costs more.

Hybrids are not bad. Illinois points out that they are bred for traits like uniformity, disease resistance and flavour. They are just a poor choice if you want to keep your own seed going.

Why this matters for a prepared household

If you grow open-pollinated varieties, each harvest can also be next year’s seed supply. That gives you a garden you can keep going year after year without buying new seed for those crops. For a household that values being able to provide some of its own food, that independence is the main reason to choose open-pollinated seed.

Start with self-pollinating crops

Some crops pollinate themselves inside each flower, so they rarely cross with neighbouring varieties. UMN and Illinois list tomatoes, peppers, beans and peas. Seeds of Diversity Canada adds lettuce and calls these the easiest and most reliable for beginners.

Leave these for later:

• Squash, pumpkins, cucumbers and melons. UMN says insects can cross them, and the seed often grows fruit with inferior flavour.
• Corn. UMN warns that popcorn and sweet corn can cross on a windy day, giving seed that is neither good sweet corn nor good popcorn.
• Carrots and beets. These are biennials, so UMN notes they need two growing seasons to set seed.

Seed companies keep cross-pollinated crops pure with large distances between varieties. Illinois lists, for example, 1,300 feet (about 400 m) for squash and pumpkins, and 5,200 feet (about 1.6 km) for sweet corn. It also says home gardeners do not usually follow these strictly, which is another reason to start with self-pollinating crops.

How to save the easy ones

Beans and peas. UMN says to leave some pods on the plant until they are dry and the seeds rattle, which may take as long as a month after the normal harvest. Then dry them indoors for at least two weeks before shelling.

Tomatoes. UMN describes a wet method: scoop out the seeds and gel, put them in a jar with water, and stir twice a day. The good seeds should sink within five days. Pour off the liquid, rinse, and dry the seeds on paper towels.

Peppers. UMN says to let some fruit ripen on the plant until it starts to wrinkle, then remove the seeds and dry them.

Lettuce. Yukon’s guide groups lettuce with the dry-processed seeds: let the seed heads ripen until brown and dry on the plant, then harvest, thresh and winnow.

Pick your seed plants early. Yukon suggests marking the plants you will save from early in the season so nobody harvests them by mistake. Seeds of Diversity says to save from many plants to keep a variety’s natural range of traits, and only from plants that are mature and disease-free.

Healthy plants only. UMN warns that bacterial canker of tomato can spread on seed and is hard to control once established, and infected seed often looks normal.

Dry it well

Seeds of Diversity says dryness is by far the most important factor in storage. Spread seeds somewhere dry with good air flow, and keep them below 40°C (104°F), since more heat can kill them. It suggests two simple checks: well-dried seeds shatter when hit with a hammer, and dried beans or peas feel hard when bitten.

Store it cool and dry

• Container: UMN suggests tightly sealed glass jars. Seeds of Diversity suggests paper envelopes inside an airtight jar.
• Temperature: UMN gives 32 to 41°F (0 to 5°C) as ideal, so a fridge works well.
• Desiccant: UMN suggests silica gel, or 1 to 2 tablespoons of fresh powdered milk wrapped in tissue or cheesecloth, which absorbs moisture for about six months.
• Labels: variety name and the date you collected it.
• Use it soon: UMN recommends using saved seed within one year, because older seed germinates less well.

A good first season

1. Buy a few open-pollinated varieties of beans, peas, lettuce and one tomato.
2. Grow them as normal and mark a few strong plants of each for seed.
3. Save, dry, label and jar the seed in fall.
4. Plant it next spring.

If you are planning the rest of the garden, see 10 easy vegetables that store well and how much to plant to feed a family. Dry beans you save for eating, rather than planting, go straight into the pantry and into meals like one-pot rice and beans. For the pantry itself, start with the plan builder, the food section and the recipes.